Friday 10 December 2010

Weekly report W/E 12/12/10

Not a bad week. Been left with bronchitis, that seems to be on its way out since i nicked my wife's asthma inhaler. I can't recommend it obviously but it did seem to work. Last year i kept getting worse and worse until i got pneumonia. I was a bit worried this year but fingers crossed. Still getting a bit breathless and coughing but i feel fine.

Down the wall this week at Penrith having a 'performance' session. 2 6c+'s cracked off the pyramid in quick style and 1 more will go next time. Also got my eye on one on the really steep wall. I expect to get both next visit really. That would mean half my base done, 2 weeks early, with routes in very different styles: bouldery/fingery, hard lay backing, steep jug pulling and bridging/pressing. Got to be pleased with that - when i've done it of course.

Much respect to the route setters at Penrith as well. They consistently set quality routes, with accurate grading, in s small space and they are all volunteers.

Tried out the SCC stuff this week and surprised myself. With 4x4's i tried V1,1,2,1 which is the level for 7a/+. As i didn't even break sweat i had a quick break and then cracked on with a V2,2,2,1. That also went quite easily and supposedly means i should have the str end for short 7b already.

Next day came CIR. Had been dreading this as it was supposed to take 2 days to recover from. Started off on V2's, which is 7a+ standard, but it was too easy. I had a breather and started again on V3's. Got those done and felt pretty fine really. Bit tired in the arms the day after but nothing to write home about. V3 puts me in the 7b+ camp ? Taking it with a pinch of salt. Grades may have been out, i may be doing it wrong etc. so i will tweak it next week.

This was backed up with laps on routes at 6b+ tonight. 6 repeats and it was quite easy. Nice surprise. Hardest session was constant climbing at 6a for 20 mins. I got a pump but it didn't get any worse, or better, it just kind of stayed and felt un-comfortable. Weak link in the chain to work on.

It's lead me to think what is holding me back ? Technique, fluid movement on rock and the killer instinct to finish a route off through the pump. These are coming though and i am certainly feeling motivated.

Got a broken week next week with family visits, school plays and a long planned weekend away with Mrs Biscuit sans kids. Going to be tough to get 4 sessions in.

Link to UKC fit club so i'm not repeating myself too much:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=437490&new=6163353#x6163353

Thursday 9 December 2010

Amateur psychology

Had 2 moments of amateur psychology ths week.

I bolt to bolted a route last week but didn't have the energy to do it. I decided to b2b it again this week and then lead it. I set off, forgot the crux sequence to the first clip, climbed down 2 of the hardest moves, did them again and then made the clip. Still feeling OK i went for the next clip to put a link together, then the next clip and to the hard to clip clip etc. Before i knew it i was clipping the chain.

I'm sure it was because there was no pressure as i was only going to work it not lead it - allegedly. The route had been playing on my mind as i was gutted i didn't get it done last week. It's a great tactic but now i am aware of it how do i fool myself next time ? I may never be able to do it again as i will be aware i am trying to trick myself :0(

Later i felt like my foot was slipping off as i was making a big reach up. There was a huge jug in front of me from another route and i grabbed it instead of falling. I got back on and finished it off but didn't have time for another go. Jonny said to me at the bottom:

" You quit before you failed. "

I didn't get what he meant at the time but it was true. I made it my choice to grab the jug instead of trying 100% and maybe making the move despite the foot slip. I chose to quit on my terms rather than have the route beat me. That way i could think i hadn't been beaten i was still in control.

The route did beat me in a different, and worse, way. Got to watch out for that in future. Jonny may be an amateur psychologist but he was right - this time.