The sun shining out of Jonny's arse !
Well all good things must come to an end and mine almost did at the Bowderstone last Saturday. I was feeling good, for the Bowderstone, and quickly repeated Crack direct at 6C+ for a warm up. I only had 2hrs max as I had popped out early before meeting my family in Keswick for a walk so i had to get a move on. Picnic Sarcastic is my target and it felt so different this time; as in i felt like i could actually do it ! I got up to the big flatty by missing out a hold i had to slap pathetically for last year. Moving out last i watched Matt to get some beta and went back on to work the toe hook to stop me barn dooring. I got back to the flatty and was quite comfy hanging around working stuff out when suddenly: " CRUNCH !" came from my right hand middle finger. DISASTER ! I'd torn my pulley.
It hurt and swelled up quite a bit almost straightaway. Taking that as a bad sign i put my tail netween my legs and buggered off. Pete stayed on and managed to dislocate his knee working ' on the rebound'. He manned up ( no he didn't finish the problem ) and popped it back in and drove himself 1 1/2 hrs home. Respect due ! Get well soon Pete.
I did my research that night and decided to not get miserable about it but work on other stuff while i can't climb. My strength phase was about to get seriously interrupted anyway by a minor op on the 16th and going house hunting in Spain in the 23rd for a week. So all is not lost.
I even decided to still go to St Bee's on the Sunday to belay and take piccies. Somehow my shoes, chalk, harness and a rope found their way into my bag - just in case of course.
Mario warming up for the annual gurning competition at Egremont crab fair
I couldn't resist when i got there and stuck to slopey problems i know well. VB turned into V0, into V1, V2 etc. until by the end of the day i had topped out a V6 getting my STG. Not a new V6 but still very happy to have climbed it with 2 fingers strapped together. It was a lovely day out but i am not going to climb again for the next two weeks. All it will take is one wrong pull and i could put myself out for months not weeks.
Core, Bolton Dumbell Complexes, hip/shoulder flexibility and a positive attitude will take precedence over the next few weeks. I am looking for a front lever and full ab wheel roll down and up by the end of my rehab - which could be 8 weeks. I will start easy climbing again after March though.
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