Sunday, 14 February 2010


For a clue as to what the title means take a look on the newly commercialised for the thread of the same title.

The last couple of weeks have been all about putting effort in. In order to get a positive feedback loop going i needed to have something positive - and quick before i lose 'it'.

Today was going to be the big test. Texts were sent, weather sites checked and St Bees looked good, as did the weather. I wanted to give 100% on an onsight attempt of a 6c and to see where i am up to on my main goal of Dreaming of Red Rocks. There was also some un-finished business with a couple of routes i hadn't been able to commit too last year through fear of falling.

The scene was set, the psyche was turned up to 11 ...and it rained overnight and was drizzly in the morning. BASTARD !

Quick re-scheduling and an understanding wife on Valentine's Day led to a trip to Kendal wall with Mario. We'd both cleanly top roped a 7a there last week so maybe something good could still be salvaged.

After warming up and some falling practice ( i still can't stop making involuntary loud noises as i let go ) i was feeling good so decided to go for an onsight of a 6b+ up the main wall. Cracked it off good style with a bit left in the bag. Tactics went a bit out of the window for a while when i abandoned my planned smooth drop knees for wild flailing. However a couple of weeks back i wouldn't have gone dynamic and would have probably shouted "Take !" Anyway it's a new level for my main weakness so i won't pick too many faults.

Suitably happy i went for a 6c onsight on the really steep lead wall. Didn't get it but took a surprisingly non-scary lead fall. It didn't phase me at all. Back down and climbed to a new high point but called it quits. I didn't want to get too pumped as the 7a was lurking. It'll go next time i'm sure.

Long story short: clips in, top rope, Mario led it, i led it. Another new level reached.

The long story has extra info in about an awesome hands off rest i found and how a shocking adrenalin boost through the crux move proves that fear of falling is still dragging me down at the worst of times.

So positivity points gained, though strangely i feel happier about the 6b+ and 6c attempt.

It's proving the grind does produce results, so the grind continues and more results are expected.

As a reward i have allowed myself a pint and a single malt - oh and some pork scratchings and a pickled egg. Proper post training recovery food.

Back to it tomorrow. Need to get out on real rock and away from plastic.

1 comment:

  1. Hey Biscuit, nice blog.

    I'm at a similar point to you with regards to fear of falling and I'm starting to work fall practice into my sessions. How long did it take you to start seeing results? How long do you spend falling, once on every route at the belay point or more?

    Any tips appreciated!