Sunday, 2 January 2011

Self coaching - decisions decisions

Decided not to do a weekly report as it will just be repeating what i put on UKC.

Things have been going well with another couple of 6c+'s done ( one flashed ) and 2 7a's ticked off - one second go after a bolt to bolt. The volume i'm putting in really seems to be working. Good long warm up, starting around f5 for routes and V0 for bouldering, and not too much performance. Tom Randall had been dropping big hints to me about this over the last year. What can i say, he was right and i wish i'd listened a long time ago.

Separating sessions into 'training' and 'performance' helps keep the discipline and is something i can recommend.

This has been a quiet couple of weeks due to Xmas but i managed 2 trips to Kendal this week and a couple to Penrith the previous week. Roped laps on 6c felt fine ( though i think one of the routes was more a hard 6b+ than solid 6c ) and 4x4's at Kendal was polished off at V2,2,2,2. I took 5 mins rest between sets and it was much more of a workout than at Keswick. I was unsure as to the grading at Keswick, and the problems are so short, so Kendal was much more of a realistic test.

It's all pointing towards me being ready for 7b ( when i finally get out again that is ) but i have doubts. When i have tried to boulder hard there doesn't seem to be much there. I haven't done any strength work for a while and i have found myself wanting to slip into old habits and get back to it. However i am climbing better than ever so should i keep going and scrape every bit out of the volume phase or have i already peaked ? How do you know when to stop and change ? I have been very guilty in the past of chopping and changing so much i didn't give things a chance to work.

I need some thinking time.

No comments:

Post a Comment