Monday, 29 November 2010

The hard work starts here

Frustrating couple of weeks since i got back from Kaly. Every year when the heating goes on i get a virus. Something to do with the drying out of my mucus membranes due to the dry air caused by the heating. Normally i'm over it in a few days but this time i got proper man flu. I was on the sofa for 4 days and have felt so washed out since i haven't had the energy to do anything.

I'm still coughing up little aliens and streams of thick green goo are constantly flowing from my nose but i managed to get out on Sat to Kendal wall. Not too bad a session considering. Just to get going again. Lots of volume bouldering and some routes. Tried a strong, short, 6c+ but it felt a long way away.

I've spent the time on the sofa constructively looking at how to put a training plan together.
This thread was particularly helpful:,16421.0.html

I was trying to decide between periodisation and progression as promoted in Self Coached Climber. Again UKB came to the rescue with lots of info for me to make an informed choice:,16435.0.html

My target is Comedy (7c) at Kilnsey before we go to Spain next October. My plan is mix periodisation and progression, and hopefully get the best of both worlds. I am going to train for strength and short routes through the Winter and then hit the fitness work for 3-4 months in the run up to Comedy.

Below is my basic outline:


4 sessions a week. 3 training + 1 performance.
3 x core + 3 x antagonists each week.
Routes are short. Mix of technical/vertical + strong/steep.


1 x 6c+ a week
CIR boulder @ V2
Cont climb 6a
4x4 - V2121
Body fat - 13% end of Dec


1 x 6c+ a week
VIR boulder @ V3
Cont climbing 6a+
4x4 - V3021
boulder session
Body fat - 11% end of Jan


1 x 7a a week
1 x Threshold boulder per week
4x4 - V2021
boulder session ( woody )
Body fat - 10% end of Feb


2 x 7a+
1 x campus a week
boulder session ( woody )
boulder - longer probs
4x4 - V1121



7b - hopefully outdoors ( Malham ? )

training wise not sure yet will see what i am lacking when i get nearer


Comedy 7c before Oct 2011
Lourdes 8a before 2012

As someone pointed out on UKC the most important thing isn't which system you choose but getting at least 200 quality training sessions in over the next year. Having the discipline and motivation is what's going to get me to 8a.

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