Working Hueco Crack (boss start) the day i discovered that taping poorly fingers is BAD
After finally having a good session i am feeling invincible, and with that attitude it can't be long until i get injured again. My finger just didn't seem to be making any decent recovery and i was beginning to get seriously despondent. I remember when i did it that Mat De Val gave me sage words of advice:
" If that was me i'd be down to the offie now and get pissed for 8 weeks 'cos you're not going to be doing any climbing."
Wise words indeed, and gentle mickey taking aside he was pretty spot on. This last week my finger has suddenly improved, after about 6 weeks. It still hurts if i poke it around the pulley area ( note to self: stop poking it around the pulley area, it hurts ) and is too painful to use in the morning for the first 5 minutes. Overnight it seems to go rigid and swollen - yes, i'm still talking about my finger. Once i get going it soon loosens up but i panic everytime i wake up that it's died over night.
So what has caused this sudden change ? I think it was my daughter's pink sponge ball we got to help her with her catching. It fits nicely in an adults hand and has just the right amount of squeeze to it. I stopped the icing and just squeezed all the time for 2 days. Whenever i wasn't using my right hand i was squeezing. Possibly not science and that but it worked for me.
Unfortunately i have left it in the back of Jonny's car and he ran off to Leeds with it. Bugger !
I think the main point though is to try and keep positive, do what you can and be patient.